Dark Smokey Eyes

Hello girls, I hope you enjoyed my last blog and that you have been trying out some of my techniques. For this blog we are going a step further …. DARK SMOKEY EYES.

This is not just for the adventurous, we can do it in a classy way for all ages and lifestyles.

I did the make up for Young Ideas Ashbourne – Fashion Show last week, so have all the steps in pictures, thanks to the lovely Harriet. I painted the faces of 10 models and I had 12 minutes a face so it was scary stuff. I thought my arm was going to fall off, but I did it and all was well.

The fashions and styling, as you can see were fantastic so well worth a visit to the store. Tell them I sent you! Sally Montague did the hair and as a team it was very stressful but all good fun and the results were amazing.

So let’s give it a try, get your make up out and off we go.

Below are a few of the finished models to give you an idea of what this look can achieve.

Look at my first blog if you haven’t seen it already, as first you need to prime or prepare your skin – always a must for great make up.

Now create a ‘blank canvas’ in this order: put on your concealer, foundation and under eye illuminator to hide dark shadows. Don’t forget to use the concealer on your lids as an eye shadow base.

Now we can start applying colour. Choose which look you want to create, I am talking you through my blonde model. I chose dark brown, cream highlighter, bronzer, peach blush and bright red lipstick. Classic colours for a classy look, great for blue eyed girls.

Step 1

Eyebrow definition: Use a dark brown (no shimmer) powder, take a brow brush and do tiny brush strokes up to feather the brows. Don’t be shy with this, it has to be really strong and defined.

Step 2

Take the dark brown – again it must have no shimmer, and using a sponge applicator spread the shadow over your lids just above the lashes. Now take the same colour and put it under the bottom lashes. Move the applicator from the outer edge tapering off towards the eye duct.

Step 3

Put a small amount of cream highlighter under the brow arch.

Step 4

Get your blending brush or smudge brush and using a taupe colour brush into the eye socket. Feather it out to the side of the eye and brush up to the brow in the inner eye.

Look closely at the image to see where to go.


Step 5

Take an eyeliner brush, dip it in water, then into the darkest brown or even black if you dare. Now carefully brush from the outer edge of the eye towards the eye duct on the top lids, as near to the lashes as possible. If you find this difficult try doing dots between the lashes first, then simply join them up.

Now you will undoubtedly have dropped bits of shadow over your cheeks – don’t panic and don’t rub it off!  Use a cotton bud to remove the main bits, then get a contour brush put a little of the cream shadow or iridescent powder on. Brush from the temple to the base of the eye duct to clean away AND it highlights at the same time.

Step 6


Using a bronzer do your face shaping (see blog 1), then blusher at the front of the face. You will see it all starting to come together – I know it’s scary when you first see your eyes but stick with it. Look at the images, and see the end result.

Step 7

Apply heaps of mascara, two coats at least – for this look use black – as black as you can get!

Step 8

Brush over your eyebrows, either with an old mascara brush – washed out of course, or a proper brow brush – they are the same thing.


Step 9

Outline the outer edge of your lips with a white pencil first, but not too much! Now outline the true line with a red lip liner. Fill in with a bright red lipstick. Pick one with an orange base note – not pink, this is important. Keep the colours complementing each other.

Just do me one favour – look again – in a magnifying mirror.  I know – I know, but you must make sure it is all absolutely PERFECT.

The key to all great make up is perfection – so check then check again. If anything needs cleaning up use a cotton bud – NEVER your finger.

Use the same technique for the dark plum and pink shades used on the model below. If you have been following my blogs or have read my book you will know these shades are absolutely fantastic on green eyes or on sallow skin.

Just on a closing note, I have to tell you about a workshop I did last week. I had 10 teenagers and two 40 plus year olds, who were the mams (North East for Mums)

The young uns were so controlled and wanted natural make up whereas the mams who had come along to give moral support went haywire. They started slow but by the end of the workshop they were going more and more glam, it was hilarious. I said I would mention them so here we are. Well done ladies of Burton, it was emotional.

Jo Jewett x